With fall closing in, every fashion mag on the stands is nagging me to change the channel on my face. Usually, I’m all for not holding onto the past and living in the present, but I have to admit, I’m having a hard time making the switch. The truth is I just got the spring/summer makeup thing down. I’m a glowey, dewey, shimmering makeup pro.
I have a feeling I’m not the only one having a hard time putting on their fall face. The main reason so many of us are hanging back is this year’s changeover is much more dramatic than usual. We’re being asked to give our nude, glossy lips a red lipsticked kiss good-bye and swap in our dewey skin for a matte face.
Indeed, at the heart of the fall’s new makeup trends are matte foundation, matte lips and deep, dramatic colors, like red lipstick and cobalt blue and emerald green eyeliner.
“A major inspiration for the look is old Hollywood glam,” explains Beth Bender, makeup expert and creater of Beth Bender Cosmetics. “That’s where many fashion designers are taking their cues. But, the question is: how do women take these looks from the runways and fashion magazines, and modify them to fit their own needs.”
For their part, makeup artists are excited about the the new fall makeup trends. “They’re different, they’re new and we love them!” says Elke von Freudenberg, celeb makeup artist and trusted makeup blogger. “We’ve been doing the same kind of makeup for about four or five years; it’s been the same bronzey, glowey skin with the lip gloss and the black eyeliner.”
But, von Freudenberg points out that consumers haven’t been as quick to embrace the new fall trends. “I don’t think consumers are ready for it,” she says. “For instance, red lipstick has been hyped about for the past three seasons, and still no one is wearing it.”
But if you are determined to leap into a new fall look or at least tip toe forward with a red lip here or a cat eye there, here is a master list of the top fall makeup trends along with tips and tricks from trusted makeup experts on how to best apply them.
Red Lips
The red lip that’s heading up this fall’s look isn’t your grandmother’s kisser. What catapults this crimson classic into the future is a creamier texture and a softer application. So, to achieve the red lip of today, steer clear of a harsh matte version and opt for a creamy, velvety or satin texture. MAC’s Russian Red and Nars Lipstick in Red Lizard are hot sellers.
The trick to finding a shade of red that looks best on your skin tone is to pay close attention to the “undertone” of the lipstick, explains von Freudenberg. Every red lipstick has a color beneath the red. That undertone could be blue, burgundy, brown, yellow or orange. Steer clear of whatever undertones match up with the problem areas of your face. For instance, if you have blue/black circles under your eyes, stay away from red lipstick with a blue undertone or if you have red patches, stear clear of burgundy undertones.
In order to keep your red lips soft and modern, experts recommend first applying a nude or colorless lip pencil, like D’Finer D’Liner from Benefit Cosmetics. After carefully applying with a brush, blot color at the edges to play down the contrast between your lips and the surrounding skin. To further soften the look, Bender recommends applying either a lip glaze or lip balm over the lipstick.
Lastly, when wearing a red lipstick, let your lips be the star and keep the rest of your makeup soft, advises Bender.
Cat Eyes
As is the case with this season’s red lips, the cat eye trend is meant to be an updated version not a flashback of Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffanys. As opposed to the blunt line of the ‘60s, this fall’s cat eye is smokey and smudgey.
Makeup experts are falling over themselves to explain the many different techniques to achieve the look. But, if you’re a beginner like me, there’s an easier approach. It’s a patented beauty tool called “Get In Line” courtesy of Beth Bender. Along with three eyeshadows, an applicator brush and step-by-step directions, the Get In Line compact includes four nifty patented stencils, one of which is of course a cat eye stencil. Bender’s invention was recently hailed by Amy Winehouse, the cat eye queen, as “brilliant!”
But, if you’re determined to try to create the look without training wheels, opt for an eye pencil instead of liquid eyeliner; it’s easier for novices to apply. And it goes without saying that if you’re going to do a cat eye, leave your red lips at home!
Matte Skin
Dewey and glowey is out and matte is in. But, don’t be alarmed; it’s not the pancake matte of the ‘90s. This matte look is meant to be “matte not flat,” says Freudenberg. The key to a lighter matte look is going easy on the powder. First, apply a primer, such as Photo Finish Foundation Primer by Smashbox, to cover pores, control shine and hide any skin imperfections. After applying primer, apply a medium weight liquid foundation on the entire face and seal the deal with a loose powder, like Laura Mercier Loose Setting Powder.
Grey Eyeshadow
Grey, which is all over the runways this fall, has crept up onto eyelids. The most important thing to keep in mind when applying grey eyeshadow is to keep it off of the lid and apply it to the crease, says von Freudenberg. To get the season’s smoky grey eye, apply a neutral bone on the lid, then apply grey shadow from lash line to crease. Lastly, smudge a bit of shadow along lower lashes. Smashbox’s Eyeshadow Trio in “Twilight” is a great choice for a smoky, grey eye.
Heavy Brows and Thick Lashes
Chill out on the waxing and plucking and start cultivating your brows for a thicker, heavier look ala Gweneth Paltrow on a recent cover of W Magazine. And for thick, lush lashes, apply three coats of mascara or sport partial or full falsies, such as Shu Uemura’s false eyelashes or Mac’s no 7 lash.
A few other trends worth noting:
Smudgy or Dotted Eyeliner
Emerald Green or Cobalt Blue Eyeliner
Peach or Dusty Rose Blush
Cherry Red Gloss
Smoky Eyes with Bronze or Metallic Shades
Contour Powder for cheeks
